Monday, June 13, 2011

Rambling. A New Direction. In the Beginning...

I am not a traveler, not an adventurer. Things happened to me in my search for a way out. Up till now I had been working away in a blind tunnel, burrowing in the bowels of the earth for light and water. I could not believe, being a man of the American continent, that there was a place on earth where a man could be himself.
                                                                                                                      Henry Miller, Black Spring

That quote doesn’t perfectly describe my current sentiment but it comes pretty damn close. Sometimes you pull the six of diamonds and sometimes it’s the jack of hearts… then other times, you’re left burrowing in the bowels of the earth for light and water and if you ever catch yourself looking for a reason why, well then, I think you may have missed the underlying theme; hell, there’s not too much that makes sense right now so please try and keep up with me.

Here I am: saturated and fed up with talk and thoughts of progress, goals, ambitions, objectives, reports, research, results, manpower, horsepower, systems, analysis, improvements, governments, strikes, unions, revolutions, revelations and religions. How about a little laziness and romance, foolishness and mawkish revelry? How about we toss all the abandoned ambitions into the sea and wish them well on their long adventure back to nowhere? That includes heaven too – the silliest of all ambitions! If we haven’t found heaven yet, lets try emptying our guts and our guns as well as our pockets and purses. Quit praying and start practicing!

The prophets are long gone and the preachers, pastors and priests stumble all over themselves trying to put all the broken pieces back together. And I can hear the devil’s cackle a few thousand miles away… she’s a mighty fine chemist, that one! Try and forget where you’re at and who you’re with; wake up and scuttle around with no purpose; open all the windows; turn the music up; enjoy yourself; love everyone in sight – especially the bastards that make you grit your teeth cause dammit they are the ones that need it the most. We’re all weighed down like leaden bombs clicking and ticking and banging into one another until one of us blows up and the whole game is over. Rid yourself of all that weight and you’ll probably float back from where you came… back into the rain; back into the ether… back into the world of make believe… but don’t listen to me cause I don’t know anything; I’m just a blind grump frantically whistling a joyous tune and kicking an empty can through an unrecognizable, grit-laced alley… I just try and sing for the sake of the song.

It was this flame of restlessness that brought me to Africa. The feeling hasn’t gone anywhere and I don’t expect to shake it anytime soon. It’s a stubborn trait for sure. Honestly, I’ve been running away from everything, including myself, for a long time… frantically in pursuit of that essence I can never properly identify but often refer to as salvation or liberation or freedom… a unique Weltanschauung that I can justifiably call my own and perhaps, if I am lucky in the end, procure some rare spiritual or metaphysical reward or achieve some fraction of that elusive and relative contentment or love that we’re all presumably seeking. My naiveté has never known any bounds – I blame it on being perpetually coddled; always working to get to what I want. The trick perhaps is realizing that this whole game has never been about me. And it’s not about you either.

I’m not crazy or mad, but if I listen to myself for too long, I feel like I could certainly get there. I tread lightly but still find myself without proper ballast and in the middle of the storm. Do you know that feeling? You’re at the precipice of something outrageously magnificent or terrifyingly silly or both and you have no choice but to proceed. Reluctantly, I step – I tiptoe like a lumbering bull on a tightrope… I fall forward with arms outstretched like a child lost in the dark and I cannot discern in which direction I’m moving or whether I am actually moving at all. Some days, I feel like a happy fool! Most days, I’d prefer to be shoved from behind! Forward or backward makes no difference; up and down are irrelevant; easterly or westerly matter none; it is just the movement that makes the whole scenario unique and I have no choice but to partake. And the same goes for you as you sit there reading this rubbish… look around and listen… there should be a bird chirping somewhere… … a tree rattling… a thunder rumbling…. a hillside crumbling… someone sighing, someone dying, someone crying, someone falling in love, someone dropping a bomb… everything is going on while we keep our hands over our ears too afraid to listen! “Lebo in that dress!” will be the chorus and I’ll whistle the verse for you in a staccato Bantu rhythm. It doesn’t make any sense so I must be onto something. I think I’ll call the tune, “Tick Bite Fever.” I’m open to any and all suggestions, though. In fact, I welcome them. I welcome all and sundry.

I have to keep reminding myself that there is never an arrival. There is no place to go. There is no freedom to be achieved. Salvation is all around us… right under our collective nose and that is naturally and appropriately the hardest place for us to look. Christ summed it all up nicely: the kingdom of heaven is within you. That’s it! Wrap up what you’re doing, put down your pens, close the books, throw your feet up and bask in whatever comes along. I admit this does not come naturally – it takes hard work and a lot of it. Unfortunately, we’re just a little too busy with this and that and everything in between so we can never see the light or hear the word or stay away from that dirty ole’ Thunderbird. Someone says, “jump” and we don’t even ask how high or why; it’s easier to simply oblige. Keep jumping and we’ll see where we all end up. And where have we ended up? Some are in the gutter and some are in outer space; some are in the boardroom and some are in the barracks; some are suffering and some are sailing; some will inherit the earth and some will not. Ah, well, here is to evaporation, condensation, relaxation and inspiration. I’m in Africa. I still don’t know what it is exactly that I’m doing here, but I’m up with the sun every day. Tsatsi le letsatsi! I’m alive. And so are you.  It can be so damn wonderful – even when we don’t like to admit it.  

Right now, I’m doing my best to absorb whatever it is that is happening to me at any given moment. Still, I often find myself tangled in all the futile anticipations and anxieties… a quick shift of the mind and suddenly I’m in another world that is a muddy pastiche of not-so-distant memories, imaginary futures and outrageous fantasies... Cypress Avenue, Cherry Hill, Mission Valley, Fairmont, WV, New York City, Ocean Beach, Pacific Beach, Myrtle Beach, Charlotte, NC, Pittsburgh, PA, Denver, CO, Alaska, Atlanta, Albany, Amsterdam, Ghanzi, Kanye, India, France, Saturn, Pluto, somewhere in the Andromeda galaxy, Dimension Eight or Twelve, heaven and hell – I’ve been everywhere… starting all over again with loves past and loves yet to come… old friends and new friends bounce in and out like viral pinballs and I laugh about all I’ve gained and all I’ve lost and how much or how little time may remain for me in this tiny sliver of space and time! A sudden shift and off I go again…

I’ve practically tangled myself in love with a goofy goddess sent direct from another dimension… my guess is Dimension Eight in a city full of roses and boxed wine… she tends to wounds that I never knew I had… I’d like to explain in more detail, but… sudden shift…

Ah, these worlds of mine are the funniest places… these private domains of the brain that I am drawn to when I am trying to escape the right now… trying to escape the only place that I can actually exist! Here is to pointless daydreams, eh? I’ve been a teacher, a farmer, a diplomat, a doctor, a writer, a painter, a father, a husband, a lover and a tramp, just to name of few. And I’ve been damn good at every one of them. None of these lives will ever exist as they exist in my head at any given moment, but they do exist nonetheless. At times, I allow myself to be bothered when my mind wonders into these foreign worlds and at other times I just let it go and try to enjoy the fantasy. Just watch it happen, I presume! If you can, stand still like the hummingbird…

You are rambling, Rapula! My apologies. Perhaps I should get to the business of life in Botswana? Perhaps next time. Just know this: I successfully completed training and I’ve arrived in Ghanzi to begin my two-year stint as a Peace Corps volunteer. I’m excited for everything new. I’m glowering a bit about moving so far away from my best friend... leaving a strange new muse that glides backward through the minds of all the poor poets… Whitman and Yeats had it too good anyway, I figure. Can someone send me some roses? A cage for my heart!? It may need locked up for a few weeks or months or centuries to prevent it from causing some real trouble! But anyway, all is well and working in the cosmos so I’ve no reason to complain… yet. A wave rising is bound to crash sometime. I’m on the rise! But I’ll let you know how it all shakes out.

If you made it this far, thanks for sticking with me. With your help, I might actually be hitting my groove. So, I started with a quote and I’ll leave you with a little snippet courtesy of William Blake… and until next time, sala sentle!

He who binds to himself a joy
Doth the winged life destroy
But he who kisses the joy as it flies
Lives in eternity’s sunrise.

Tuesday, April 26, 2011

Three Weeks in Kanye. A Routine. A Unique Place in My Life.

A late night and, for once, I cannot sleep. Malaria medication is the culprit. I take it once a week. On that night, I don’t get much sleep and when I do sleep, I have the silliest nightmares. Anyway, I’m settling into my home stay nicely… my only genuine grumble at this point is the constant exhaustion.

I’m up by 6 a.m. every morning. I eat breakfast (corn flakes), wash my face, brush my teeth, get dressed, make my lunch (peanut butter sandwich and apple), drink a cup of tea and I’m out the door. Weekdays are filled with training, walking, talking, speaking, meeting, greeting, eating and, if I’m lucky, reading. I’m even in school on Saturday but only until noon or one – sometimes on Saturday afternoon, we sneak off to the lodge for some well-deserved free time. Sunday is my free day and that is usually spent cleaning and hand washing my clothes. For those that know me well, you know that this is quite a different schedule than I was accustomed to in the states. For those that don’t know me that well, I had developed something of an unconventional schedule, which I guess is one of the perks of being your own boss and living at home. But I wasn’t a very good boss. And I was an even worse employee. Let’s just say there wasn’t a whole lot of productivity outside of reading, writing and painting. But anyway…

I’m also supervised practically every hour of the day. I’m required to be in the house before dark. Winter is slowly rolling in and it gets dark at 6:30 p.m. It’s quite a curfew. Freedom and personal time are in short supply. Patience too. From the time I get up to the time I finally lie down to sleep (usually 8:30 or 9:00 p.m.), I have to be “on”. I promise you: it’s exhausting. I can’t do it justice with my writing. But I am enjoying it all nonetheless. I guess maybe I’m a masochist at heart. I haven’t figured all that out just yet.

Typically, when I return home from training around 6:30 p.m., Phando has a meal prepared for me – a heavy starch (rice or maize meal), a small meat portion (beef or chicken) and a very small vegetable portion (cooked cabbage or spinach). The components of the meal rarely change. In fact, they don’t ever change. I don’t know how much more maize meal I can consume. And I don’t know how much longer I can smile while doing it. But I’m so hungry by the time I arrive home, I eat whatever is on my dish and I do so eagerly. My family is under the assumption that I love the food, which is fine with me. Fortunately, a group of us trainees did manage to get together and make homemade pizzas one night. My nephew, Rokomoso, ate a piece and cringed – it was “too oniony” for him. I guess we just have different tastes. It’s wonderful, really. Perhaps I’ll grow to love maize meal and maybe Rokomoso will come around on the pizza. Who knows?

During dinner, we usually watch the television, which has five channels featuring various South African soap operas, WWF wrestling and a few really bad American sitcoms like Mad About You and My Name is Earl. Oh, and Oprah! They love the television, though. And they love it at a remarkably loud volume. Its funny most of the time, but on the days when I’m not feeling it, the television drives me crazy. After dinner we just sit around and talk and joke and laugh. We take turns doing dishes and cleaning the kitchen. After a few hours, I usually retire to my room to bathe and then to study Botswana, read or just get some sleep. That is my routine and that will remain my routine until June 7th.

This week, though, I get a break: I get to shadow a volunteer up in Francistown (the second largest city in Botswana). I’ll be there for four days. I’m excited to see a volunteer actually doing what it is that they do on a day-to-day basis. I’m also excited to get some relaxation time, eat some good food and, hopefully, enjoy a few beverages.  We’ll see how it goes! Regardless, it will be a nice break from our routine. I sense that everyone in our group is tired and a little bit frustrated. But I think most of us expected that to be the case. The bright side of it all is that we are becoming quite close and I am making some really wonderful friends.

On another, more somber note, one of my fellow trainees – and a really good friend – had to return home to America to assist a member of his immediate family who has developed a very serious illness.  It was a very emotional day when he left; in a very short period of time, we’ve all become very close and it’s hard to see anyone leave. Especially such a remarkable guy that brought a ton of positive energy to everyone around him. Here, positive energy is an enormous commodity. He’ll be greatly missed. And I know that he and his family will be in all of our thoughts and prayers.

I hope everyone enjoyed his or her Easter!! I spent Easter morning at the clinic in Gabarone getting an infected bug bite cleaned out and a swollen gland tended to. In the afternoon, I videotaped my buddy Clayton catching and killing his family’s Easter chicken as well as the messy aftermath. Supposedly, there will be a YouTube clip soon so I’ll be sure and get it on here as soon as I can. Yes, I have officially settled into my life-as-it-is-now in Botswana. Everything is changing; every day is an adventure; and every night I try to thank the powers that be for brining me to such a unique place in my life.

Love you all. Miss you all. And until next time, sala sentle!!

Tuesday, April 12, 2011

A Welcoming

Hello, everyone! I have arrived in Kayne, Botswana and have officially moved in with my host family. I will be living here in Kayne for the next two months (until June 7th). So far, my host family has been amazing. My host mother gave me a new Setswana name: Rapula (man of rain). Batswana consider pula (rain and money) to be very good luck. It rained our first day here so that made me feel really good!

Along with my host mother, I have a sister, Phando (she’s in her thirties), two nephews, Lentswe and Rokomoso (seventeen and sixteen), and a three-year-old niece named Boleng (we call her “Dudu”). Phando has really been taking care of me and making me feel at home. Lentswe speaks really good English and eager to teach so he’s been a major help! We’ve had some really good talks and we’re already becoming close. Rokomoso is more shy and reserved but he seems to be coming around. And Dudu is adorable and full of energy. Overall, they have all been extremely welcoming. In fact, everyone that I have met in the village has been extremely friendly and very happy to see us!



I live in a modest home. There is no running water in the house but we do have a tap on our property. We fill jugs every night and store our water in the kitchen. Cooking and cleaning are something of a chore, but they seem to manage with ease. I am learning. The electricity is pretty steady. There is no plumbing – we have a pit latrine/outhouse. Bathing is done with a bucket and a plastic tub that I keep in my room. Its amazing how little water you actually need to bath. Phando requires that I bathe every night and was really taken aback when I explained that I typically only bathe once a day. She also likes me to be in bed before ten o’ clock – seeing that I wake with the roosters in my backyard, I don’t argue with the early bedtime.

The food has been alright, but if there is one thing that I’m really missing, its Goo’s cooking. I didn’t realize how much I took simple food items for granted and the ease with which we Americans can obtain the food that we enjoy. In fact, the thing that has surprised me the most thus far is how dependent I have been on “convenience” in every aspect of my life. Its not that I wasn’t aware of my dependency, its just that I wasn’t aware how dependent I actually was! Convenience and accessibility have become so commonplace in our culture that we operate without giving them a second thought.



But all is relative. Batswana have their conveniences just as Americans do. When I walk down the road and am greeted with warmth and enthusiasm by everyone I meet, it is a great reminder that accessibility is no substitute for long walks, friendly encounters, and plenty of laughter between people who can barely understand one another.

I’ve only been here about a week. I feel like I’ve been gone much longer. I’ve certainly been welcomed and I’m quickly becoming adjusted. Our schedule right now is essentially comprised of Setswana lessons, cultural sessions and HIV/AIDS education. We’re really busy and usually exhausted by the end of each day. Many things are challenging and I only expect that most of them will become more so.  But in the meantime, I’m going to enjoy the slow-passing time, the discussions with Lentswe, the playtime with Dudu and the hilarious stories from my fellow volunteers/trainees.

I will try and write again once we’ve become settled into our training routine. The entire experience has been overwhelming thus far. I’m sure things will develop quickly, opinions will change and emotions will be thinly separated. I will keep you all posted as it happens.

Hope everything is going well at home. Miss you all! Peace! 

Monday, March 28, 2011

A final Monday here at home. I leave Thursday. The anxiousness, fear and excitement have settled in. They are now permanent fixtures. I cut them down. They crop back up. I laugh; they remain unamused. Our relationship is growing... I'm beginning to understand them. 

Many people have asked, "Are you ready!?" I can smile and talk about all the things I am anticipating, but the truth is that I don't know if I am prepared. I like to think that I am. I like to think that my expectations are futile - just like my fears or my hopes. On this journey, I hope to avoid any desire to foresee or maintain control. But, as I said, hope, in this case, is most likely futile. Let it happen. And, if I'm lucky, it will. I put all my faith in that which I don't know. And that which does not know me. Yet. 

Packing... tying up "loose ends"... goodbyes... last meals... what books to bring? who will I meet? what will I feel? will I learn anything? will my stomach betray me? will I make it? These thoughts, actions, anticipations and others have all fused and have surprisingly produced a relative calm. Relative, to be sure. In that sense, I think I might be prepared. 

I can't say enough about my friends and family. I can't say enough how much I will miss their company. And I know my appreciation for them will only grow with this experience. I can't say enough about home and what it has meant to me these past few years; at home, I feel that I grow with ease. I am supported and nourished. And while the comforts of friends and family and home will be sorely missed, they will never be left behind. 

Sometimes, we need reminded that life is an impromptu adventure -- unscripted and untidy, and, most often, misunderstood. Sometimes, we need  to kick the crutches out from underneath ourselves, hit the ground hard and see if we can't relearn how to walk on our own feet. Crawl first! Soon, we will be running! One day, if all goes well, we'll be flying

I try and relearn all this every day; these words of Whitman certainly help:
Allons! We must not stop here,
However sweet these laid up stores, however convenient this
dwelling we cannot remain here,
However shelter'd this port and however calm these waters
we must not anchor here,
However welcome the hospitality that surrounds us we are
permitted to receive it but a little while. 
Anchors up! Wish me luck. And I wish you all the same!